How to Attract Purple Martins: A Complete Guide to Housing & Care

I’ll be honest, my first purple martin house was a disaster. I bought a cute, cheap wooden one, hung it from a branch for “shelter,” and waited. Sparrows moved in immediately. Starlings followed. I never saw a single purple martin. It took me years of talking to seasoned “landlords” and making every mistake in the book to realize attracting these incredible birds isn't about putting up any birdhouse. It's about meeting their very specific, non-negotiable needs. If you get it right, you’re rewarded with a summer-long aerial ballet of chattering, diving insect-eaters that become genuine backyard neighbors. Let’s cut through the myths and get you started the right way.

Understanding Your Future Tenants

Purple martins (Progne subis) are North America’s largest swallow. Forget the image of a solitary bird. These are obligate cavity nesters that almost exclusively use human-provided housing east of the Rockies. That’s a unique relationship. They winter in the Amazon basin and make an incredible migration to breed here. The first to arrive in spring are the “scouts”—older adults who secure nesting sites. Their choice dictates where the younger birds will follow.

What are they looking for? Safety and community. In the wild, they nested in old woodpecker holes in dead trees standing in open areas near water. That habitat is scarce now. Your job is to replicate that security: wide-open space for easy approach and escape from predators like hawks, and a multi-family dwelling.

Choosing (and Placing) the Perfect Martin House

This is where most dreams die. That beautiful, rustic cedar house from the garden center? Probably a sparrow condo. You need function over form.

House Type: The Big Decision

You have two main paths: a multi-room apartment-style house or a cluster of gourds. Gourds (natural or plastic) are lighter, swing more independently (deterring predators), and are often preferred by martins in many regions. Houses are more traditional and easier for some to raise/lower. Many experts use a combination—a house with gourds attached below. Start with a system that has at least 6-12 compartments.

The Three Non-Negotiable Specs

Location, Location, Location

Placement is more critical than the house itself. My early mistake was thinking “partial shade” was kind. Martins think “predator perch.”

The golden rule: The most open spot on your property. Imagine a 40-foot radius circle around the pole. This should be the clearest flyway possible. Place the house pole 30-120 feet from human housing (they like us nearby for safety) but at least 40 feet from trees or tall structures. Height? The pole should allow the house to sit 10-15 feet off the ground minimum. Lower is an invitation to predators, higher makes maintenance a pain.

Invest in a good, sturdy pole system with a winch or pulley. A wobbly pole in a storm will convince any martin family to move out.

The Non-Negotiable Maintenance & Protection Routine

Being a landlord is active, not passive. You’re not just setting up a hotel; you’re managing an apartment complex.

Pre-Season Prep (Late Winter): Lower the house. Scrub every compartment with a 10% bleach solution, rinse thoroughly, and let it dry. This kills mites and bacteria. Add a couple inches of dry pine needles or wood shavings to each room as nesting substrate. Martins don’t carry big twigs; they expect a base. Raise the house back up, ready for scouts.

During the Season: Once eggs are laid, you start nest checks. Every 4-7 days, lower the house gently. Be quick and calm. You’re monitoring for: hatching progress, dead nestlings, and parasitic blowfly larvae (a common killer). If you see tiny, wriggling maggots under the nest, you need to replace all nesting material. This hands-on care dramatically increases fledging success. It’s the difference between a hobbyist and a true landlord.

Predator and Competitor Control: House sparrows and European starlings are invasive, aggressive, and will kill martins. You must be ruthless. Remove sparrow nests immediately every time you see them. For starlings, proper SREH holes are your shield. For raccoons, the pole baffle is critical. I also use an owl guard (a wire cage around the house) which discourages aerial attacks from hawks and owls without hindering the martins.

Your Purple Martin Landlord Seasonal Checklist

Here’s a quick-reference timeline based on the Midwest/Eastern US. Adjust for your latitude.

• February – March: Order replacement parts, clean gourds. Service your pole and winch.
• Late March – Early April: Houses up, entrances closed with plugs. This keeps other birds out.
• Scout Arrival (Check PMCA Scout Report): See your first scout? Open 2-3 compartments. Don’t open all yet.
• Colony Establishment (April – May): As more birds arrive, open all compartments. Begin weekly nest checks once egg-laying starts.
• Summer Management (June – July): Continue nest checks. Record hatching/fledging dates. Provide a shallow water source on the ground for mud (they use it for nests).
• Post-Fledging (Late July – August): Birds form large pre-migration roosts. Do a final clean-out after all birds have left for the season.
• Fall – Winter: Lower and store the house if possible, or secure it. Plan upgrades for next year.

Expert Answers to Your Trickiest Questions

What is the biggest mistake people make when trying to attract purple martins for the first time?

Most newcomers place their martin house way too low and too close to trees or buildings. Purple martins are colonial birds that historically nested in dead trees in open areas. They need a clear, unobstructed flyway for safety. Placing a house 10-15 feet high in the middle of your open lawn feels wrong intuitively—you think it needs shelter—but it's exactly what they require. A house tucked under a tree branch is an instant rejection for scouts.

Will a purple martin house help control mosquitoes in my yard?

This is a common misconception that leads to disappointment. While purple martins are incredible aerial insectivores, their diet consists primarily of larger flying insects like dragonflies, moths, and beetles during daylight hours. Mosquitoes are most active at dawn and dusk and are too small to be a primary food source. Attracting martins is for the joy of hosting them, not for pest control. Relying on them for mosquito reduction will leave you frustrated.

How do I protect my purple martin colony from sparrows and starlings?

You must be proactive and vigilant. Use specifically designed entrance holes (SREH, or Starling Resistant Entrance Holes) that are shaped to allow martins in but exclude the larger starlings. For house sparrows, there is no passive exclusion method—they can use the same holes. You will need to conduct regular nest checks (every 4-5 days) and manually remove any sparrow nesting material. It's an ongoing commitment. Many successful landlords consider a spare, dedicated trap for sparrows a necessary piece of equipment.

When is the right time to put up a purple martin house in the Midwest?

Timing is critical. For the Midwest (e.g., Ohio, Illinois, Iowa), you should have your house fully assembled, cleaned, and raised on its pole by late March to early April. This targets the arrival of the "scouts"—the older, experienced birds that return first to secure nesting sites. If you wait until you see martins, it's often too late; the scouts have already moved on to established colonies. Keep the entrances closed until you spot the first scouts to prevent other birds from claiming compartments.

Getting that first pair of purple martins is a thrill. It takes patience—sometimes a few seasons. But when you hear that first deep, throaty chirp and see that dark, forked tail swoop over your yard, you’ll know the effort was worth it. You’re not just putting up a birdhouse. You’re continuing a centuries-old partnership. Start with the right gear in the right place, commit to the upkeep, and you’ll have a front-row seat to one of nature’s best shows.